Oaxaca Family Adventure: Clouds of Wool

I have to admit I was nervous when I climbed into the back seat of a taxi at the Abastos Market this morning. Pat had read that when going on a tour to the town of Teotitlan del Valle, the guides will charge up to 40% more for your weaving purchases. Teotitlan is about 20 miles outside of Oaxaca City, and so he decided to try to take a collective taxi to get out there and then go it alone when touring. Turns out the taxi to Teotitlan didn't pass through Abastos anymore, but there was a collective taxi to another town that would drop us off on the way. Pat sat in front, and the kids and I were in the back. Penelope was thrilled to be in a taxi, and Abe felt liberated with neither booster seat or seatbelt. As we inched forward in our taxi cue before reaching the main road that circles the perimeter of Oaxaca, another passenger joined our car, but instead of squeezing in the back with me and relatively small kids, she decided to saddle up next to Pat in the front forcing all 6'6" of Pat to squeeze next to the driver and his stick shift. Needless to say Pat was hardly able to move when it came time to exit the car.

Our first stop in Teotitlan was the home and studio of the famous weaver, Isaac Vasquez Garcia. He's not only well known but has been written about in books and magazines, and his pieces hang in museums. Rick Bayless, famous Chicago chef, also owns quite a few of his rugs. His son gave us a run through of the process of converting the wool which they obtain from the Mixteca (region in Oaxaca) where it is a little cooler and hence the wool a little longer to the finished woven rug. He proceeded to card and spin the wool. (Abe and I got to try this, too). Then he explained the natural dying process. Oaxaca is famous for their red dye which comes from the larva of an insect that makes its home on cacti. Finally he wove for us, and then it was time to shop.

We visited some other shops and studios, and a small archaeological museum before settling for lunch. The main restaurants weren't open yet so we found this smaller establishment that was part cafe, part store, part weaving studio, and the proprietors' home. The small tables in front were occupied so she told us to go into the back patio area where we passed the time sketching, playing hangman, trying to guess where the rooster was at, and watching the welders next door. Don't look at the blue flame! It was complete contentment sipping agua fresca de Jamaica.

This evening we found a smaller park/plaza only 5 1/2 blocks away where Abe was able to kick his soccer ball around. We weren't sure how kosher this practice was, but another Mom and son were playing some sort of tennis game. So hopefully we can make this a habit. It would be great if this could be our spot for sport and watching the world--young couples being intimate in public, old couples talking and resting, the fresh flower vendor rejuvenating her stems in the fountain, the dance class bumping across the street, and all the action under glorious trees with exposed roots. We picked up our clean laundry on our way home to boot. We'll be fresh for tomorrow.