Oaxaca Family Adventure: Monte Alban

Aboard a small bus and winding our way up the hill to Monte Alban we witnessed the communities clinging to the steeply graded ground resisting the everlasting force of gravity. The precarious foot paths and creative construction gave way to a feeling of instability and fluidity as if it all could be wiped away in a single shake of the ground. Then we arrived at the summit 6400 feet above sea level- at the site of Monte Alban, the ancient Zapotec capital dating from 500 BC to 800/900 AD. In addition to being one of the earliest cities in Mesoamerica, there is evidence of it having a system of governance where it received tributes from its protectorates. It was the religious and political center for up to 40,000 people. The structures we encountered and climbed on were primarily temples and perhaps palaces of the ruling, priestly classes. There was also a fair amount of propaganda present in their carved facades which depicted images and symbology of their conquered people. And for the sake of a good mystery, there is one building which does not fit on the grid layout which honors the sacred four directions. So it is speculated that this sore thumb is somehow constructed by or associated with aliens (extraterrestrialtecs) or some astrological force.

The Zapotecs leveled and terraced this mountain--an astounding feat alone, then built elaborate and durable pyramid structures that have their own patios, terraces, sloping steps, etc. First of all it is fascinating to imagine destroying a natural feature such as the mountain only to recreate in an extraordinarily precise and stylized manner. All of this effort to be in better communication with nature/gods/heavens etc. Second there are niches in these temples which academics believe were places to make offerings. Furthermore entombed people were buried with offerings and treasures (which we saw in the archaeological museum in Santo Domingo, see earlier post). Both of these practices are active today. Niches are found everywhere in homes and business--little sacred spaces often housing a statue surrounded by flowers and other sacred offerings, and during the Dia De Los Muertos festivities, loved ones leave food and offerings on altars and graves of the deceased. I came away with the feeling that the more things change, the more they stay the same as Oaxaca is a strange amalgam of past and present. It is like a living history having preserved culture and languages (16 official in the state of Oaxaca) of its indigenous peoples who have held on to their roots and culture despite conquest.

After the Zapotecs mysteriously left Monte Alban the Mixtecs from the north continued to revere the site using it to bury their dead, but its lack of water, wood, and other resources ensured that it remain abandoned. Likewise we made our decent back to the city for some energy resources in the form of tacos in the carnes asadas portion of the 20 de Noviembre Market. Pat and I first encountered this phenomenon on the PBS program featuring Rick Bayless, Mexico One Plate At A Time. In a series devoted to Oaxaca, the chef sits in this very market demonstrating how one gets a large flat basket with bulb onions, fresh chiles, and meat (beef, pork, and chorizo) and take it to a stand where they grill everything. You then make your own tacos with fresh tortillas and your choice of condiments. We picked avocado slices and a salsa, but there were radishes, guacamole, pico de gallo and others. You create your tacos and when taking a bite, you can feel your soul ascend to heaven. I raised my eyes in pure bliss noticing a Marian statue perched on shelf and ensconced in fresh flowers.